The magic and Pure Alchemy of Iron

Posts tagged “Norse knife


First off  before get into explaining this item the original place I saw it was and from a few other concepts of static knife edging jigs used in professional factories. I am not associated with Captjeff78  personally but he deserves  credit for this great design and honestly the difference maker in my knives going forward. Youtube and many of these great knife video makers are adding valuable if not invaluable hands on info to the greater amateur knife making community so thank you to everyone in the education field regarding Blacksmith and knife making based information. I myself run this blog to help anyone who may be going through the head scratching parts of making knives and doing forge work.


Now onto the Visbjorn Scandi Edge jig!







Forgive the bad graphics but this item is rude, crude and ready to use!

The jig above I use to make Scandinavian Edge style knives to great effect! I can make the same knife with any depth of hollow ground I want and they are basically ready to use right off the sander. I use 80 grit to remove material and 120 to finish my knife edge. I leave the steel at factory finish to creat a more earthy realistic feel that I prefer. I then 3500 RPM wire brush after all heat treating. Sometimes it is nice to hit the master bevel one  more time  to brighten it up after heat treating. I use a Ryobi 4″-36″ belt sander and generic 1″ by 30″ sander.I prefer using fresh factory made 1075/1080 High carbon steel. Please refer to my Trade off steel post for more info on how to get 1080 and other alloys.

As the graphics show, it is rather self explaining how to make and use this item. Simply creating a secure static for the knife to sit on and move it slowly but firmly across the belt until the desired edge is created. I modified mine to be more adjustable and use the large clamp as a handle which can be a pain but creates a more flexible tool if holes are not desired on your tang. I typically mount in antler so I use a Scandinavian tang shape.

Examples of blades made on my jig:



A finale note I would like to share regarding this jig concept is the profound effect it has made on my freehand knife making. It has steadied my hand and given the proper example of thorough steady grinding required to make a nice functional knife. Now when a roughly forged blades is needing an edge but does not fit on the jig I can easily achieve a nice uniform convex/scandi edge with great success>













I hope this will help on the road to better knife making, it has helped me greatly in my own progress and has redefined my art form in many ways.





REBAR part 2 40 grade success story.

40 grade domestic Rebar forged into Norse Athame


40 grade Athame.

My original 60 grade rebar article has been very popular because it covers the general questions on rebar from a field testing stand point however it largely has left out the more commonly found 40 grade, so I decided to tackle it head on in this update to REBAR: HOW AND WHY.
The 2 daggers above were forged from a single piece of random grade 40 domestic rebar. I decided to  torture test the hardness, strength and consistency of grade 40 after the success with grade 60. The results were 100% positive in the fact that this material water hardened so well I myself could not believe it. I made 2 daggers out of it with identical results and then quench hardened a non worked portion to test randomly in my vice. I place the round undeformed piece in my vice and attached a wrench to it  attempting to bend it. It was so hard that not only did it barely bend under pressure it actually return to shape when it finally did flex.  After this testing it still appears that tempering is not 100% needed  but this is my own preference. Viewing my  experiments in whole I have yet to have any negative result from making blades out of either 40 or 60 grade and the hardening ability/carbon has been high in all pieces I have tested and all tests have been on totally random pieces. One piece actually snapped when I continued to forge below temp.
My steel rating:
Workability: A+
Hardening: B+
Durability: A+
I again highly recommend at least testing this your self and seeing if you get the same results.
I will be making a rebar Scandi and it will be featured in a future article with testing data.
Remember that field testing material has far more value than internet myth and metal working lore that up to this point has been flat-out wrong.


Hammer with Thor image.

Hand forged copper Thor’s hammer amulet.

Copper Athame/Seax with Antler Tine.


Forged Gotland inspired spiral with mat patina.

Acid etched Thor’s Hammer with forged ring.

Engraved Thor's hammer. Copper art.Copper Athame. Viking style.

Copper fork.


Gotland Spiral.


Copper grouping.


Viking spirals.


Textured Hammer.Norse Spoon.




Acid etch.


 Copper works.


Norse Seax and its finer points of design.

Norse Seax in Battle form with Reindeer antler handle.

Utility lenth Seax Forged from High Carbon Steel.


Iron Seax.


The Norse Seax:

Length 7 to 24 inches historically.

Date of invention early: Iron age.

Meterial: Iron/Steel.

Notabe details: Steep drop angle nose and straight cutting edge.

Name: Seax is from the Germanic word “SAX” meaning short sword or long knife.




The Saxon people derived there name from this weapon because of there lengedary use of the weapon. No man was without this blade in the time of migrations. The popularity of the blade was so woven into Nordic culture that the Seax in style existed from the early iron age through the Viking age.

The Norse/Saxon warrior often carried:

1 Spear

1 Seax

1 Sword

1 belt knife

  A hand Axe could also be added to this already fully stocked personal armoury.